It seems Blackpool Pleasure Beach has almost always been Britain’s biggest seaside theme park. Other theme parks in the UK are no doubt bigger yet can only be found inland, such as Alton Towers. It wasn’t always like this. One of Britain’s biggest was officially closed down 45 years ago this month – although by this time it had practically become derelict. It was popularly known as ‘The Kursaal’ and was to be found at Southend on Sea. The main buildings, which still stand today are evocative of the older ‘Kursaal’ days. In the more modern days that ensued, the entire complex, having spread wide and far and offered countless rides, slot machines, and other fayre, was known as the as Kursaal Amusement Park.

When we consider the proliferation of theme parks today, The Kursaal was a pioneer, being one of the world’s first ever purpose built theme parks. Unlike Blackpool’s which actually began life on the beach itself, the Kursaal had its own dedicated piece of land on the seafront. In 1894 the Kursaal’s predecessor, the Marine Park and Gardens opened.

The Marine Park circa 1900. The houses in Arnold Avenue and Beach Road were demolished to make way for the main Kursaal building.

By 1901 the Marine Gardens had acquired a new building on the seafront and was known as the Kursaal Palace. The building was designed by George Sherrin (who was also responsible for the famous dome on top of the Brompton Oratory.)

The main Kursaal building, circa 1900s.

Although the pleasure venue changed its name to Luna Park in 1910, within five years ‘Kursaal’ had made a triumphant return – in those days it was reputed to be the largest theme park in the world. With a maximum acreage of 27, it certainly was large and took a good bit of walking around to see all the rides.

The Kursaal in the 1930s looking east. Source: Buzzfeed

By this time Southend on Sea was becoming a huge visitor attraction for hordes of people from London and the home counties. Its lengthy pier was perhaps the one inevitable attraction and most of the attractions were to be found adjacent to or near the pier. The famous three foot gauge electric railway that ran from shore to Pier head was a huge draw, not to mention the fun fair at the end of the pier. Everything the day visitor could want could be found on Southend’s pier. On the seashore stood the Golden Hind galleon, a miniature railway and crazy golf course. On the west side of the pier’s landward end was Never Never Land and Peter Pan’s Playground. The latter eventually became Funland. Adventure Island now takes up much of this area.

The Kursaal was quite well away from the main part of this popular part of Southend, thus it perhaps took a more dedicated visitor to want to go there. Much like other seaside places, the fun of the fair was invariably located some distance well away from the beating heart that was the tourist hotspot.

Kursaal advert – Coronation year 1937.

One result of this arrangement was the entire area around the bottom of Pier Hill and the famous pier itself had became the hottest part of town. Things were kept somewhat up to date, including newer stores, chippies, arcades and rides. The Kursaal, by way of its being somewhat out of place towards the east, struggled in its later years to even change in order to keep up with the rest of the seafront. Even so, in its last years despite a quite rundown appearance, The Kursaal managed to soldier on.

There is a strong belief the Kursaal’s closure indeed affected Southend’s popularity as a premier seaside resort. The finger of blame for the Kursaal’s ultimate decline and Southend’s eventual woes continue to be pointed in certain directions even to this day.

In 1990 I took this (and the main picture) of the Kursaal, two decades years after the rides had closed. As the above picture shows, there was absolutely nothing left of the theme park.

Throughout the sixties the Kursaal gradually declined and by 1969 partial closure had been effected. The council claimed the Kursaal was a ‘tatty Victorian antiquated fairground.’ The main frontage building with its arcades and restaurants continued to fully function however. By 1971 it was practically shut, its future in limbo. In December 1972 a huge fire broke out on the Kursaal’s famous Scenic Railway. The structure was eventually decreed dangerous it had to be demolished. That was in January 1973.

That calamitous event prompted a review of the Kursaal in February 1973, the result being the site needed to be shut down completely and levelled off in order to be made into a housing estate. These proceedings sort of dragged on. Although the amusement park had by largely gone by 1974, successive bids to develop the land failed. This perhaps was the main ‘Kursaal’ building’s saving grace. It held on partially in use until 1986 and in due course the iconic structure was classed as a Grade II listed building. By 1998 it had been fully restored and reopened.

The 26 acres of land that once formed the vast theme park become a housing estate.

List of videos featuring the former amusement park:
Wall of Death (1930) – You Tube
The Kursaal in 1931 – You Tube
Southend Pier and the Kursaal (1947) – You Tube
Wall of Death Girl (1949) – You Tube
Kursaal Rides (1951) – You Tube
Preparing the Kursaal for the summer season (1956) – You Tube
The Kursaal in 1962 – You Tube
The famous Kursaal Flyer (1963) – You Tube
The famous Kursaal Flyer (different film) – You Tube
Wall of Death Girl (1963) – You Tube
The Kursaal in its last full year of operation (1969) – You Tube
The famous pier (including a pre 1949 train) & the Kursaal just before its demolition – You Tube
The Kursaal Building in 2015 – You Tube